The distance to be covered up to the starting point of the walk is 72 kilometers on asphalt road: from Mekelle to Wukro 47 kilometers, and from Wukro to a point directly south of Freweyni another 25 kilometers. Turn right here into a gravel road; after another four kilometers (by car or on foot) you will reach an area with three old and one new churches, all of which are completely different and are each two kilometers apart.
MEDHANE ALEM ADI KESHO
Medhane Alem Adi Kesho is one of Tigray's oldest and finest rock-hewn churches estimated to date from the 10th or early 11th century. An unusual feature is the beautifully decorated narthex connecting the north and south of the church. Two doors lead to the interior of the church where the ceiling is supported by six huge square pillars. The ceiling Is decorated with reliefs and geometrical patterns. Because of its immense height and massive pillars, this church resembles a cathedral. There are engravings on the walls and a croix pattee on the right side of the back wall.
MIKAEL MILHAIZENGHI
The most striking feature of this church is the ceiling design of the room immediately after the left entrance door. Aksumite friezes decorate the three sides.
A beautiful, circular, flat relief is carved into the sandstone in the vaulted ceiling. In the center of the relief is a Greek cross from which rays and circular patterns emanate. The design is similar to the Himbasha (ሕምባሻ), the Tigrayan ornate round bread.
The church is 15 minutes drive away from Medhani Adi Kesho, from Petros and Paulos the journey takes 5 minutes.
- Medhane Alem Adi Kesho Chiruch TsaEda Emba, Tigray
PETROS we PAULOS (PETROS TEFTSAME SEMAET)
In the same area is another church, Petros Tefetsme Semaet which lies on the cliff side of the escarpment, 2740 above sea level. It is visible from the main road because of the White-washed façade. It is on the top of a bluff, reached by carefully climbing a rickety ladder and platforms placed against the cliff side.
Partially built of wood, stone and mortar, and partly a cave it boasts some fascinatingly primitive paintings. To some historians, these paintings have originality and liveliness often missing in other early period paintings of Tigray.
- PETROS we PAULOS Church
The church has not been used for several years because it is difficult to reach. However, it will always be remembered for its difficulty ascent, ancient paintings and, of course, for the courage of Haleka Halefom Retta, Tigray's last rock hewer! He takes pride in his being able to provide the local faithful with very easily accessible replacement church. To reach there it takes a ten minute drive from Mikael Milehaizengi.
DEBRE GERIZAN MARIAM GUNDAGUNDO
While the rock — hewn churches of of Tigray are becoming increase to be discovered, some of the churches are so in accessible that seeing any other foreigners during a visit to one of them would be downright surprising. One such church is that of community of Gunda Gundo.
While a new road pathway there has made the trip much more doable in a day, it is still like visiting another world. A look into the beliefs and practices of the people who make of the little hamlet, reveal that this may have been exactly what they were trying to create — another world.
The mysterious and relatively inaccessible community of Gunda Gundo is most easily accessed from the little town of Edaga Hamus, which is about 100km north of Mekelle, the capital of Tigray. It lies impressively between a sheer cliff to the west and an escarpment a common geographical feature in Ethiopia, which drops down toward the Danakil depression, in Afar Regional State, to the east.
The monastery hosts a church that bears its name, Mariam Gunda Gundo, dedicated to St Mary. The impressive church is constructed with four cruciform pillars and twelve arches, similar to a few other churches that dot the country. It dominates the scene, both due to its size, compared to other houses in the community, and due to its prominent location.
The old church is well noted for its ancient parchments made of goatskin with colorful illustrations, would or metal traditional Ethiopian crosses, and kingly crowns. Its annual festival occurs every year on January 29th (30th during Gregorian leap year).
- Mariam Gundagundo