The drive through the Gheralta cluster is fantastic, particularly between the villages of Dugem and Megab, with stratified mountains and sharp peaks rising like Aksumite stelae from the plains. This range, which rises abruptly almost perpendicularly above the Hawzien plain offers some of the most spectacular views in Tigray. George Grester, the Swiss photographer, in the book "churches in rock' writes," Gheralta with its 'western film' scenery of mountains seems to be a kind of Tigray Arizona".
Trevor Cole, one of the European tourists to visit the site, in his part gives account of his visit: "I have been to the area three times and as a reflection of the beauty of the area, the unique churches and the inimitable service in the lodge I would have no hesitation in going back time and again."
How nature is generous, wonderful, merciful, mysterious and beautiful is witnessed at the scenic beauty of the Gheralta Mountains.
Despite the fact that every rock-hewn church in the area deserves a visit, only five of the great rock-hewn churches are presented in birds — eye — view, taking Hawzien as springboard.
ABUNE YEMATA (GUH) CHURCH
5 km west of Megab, there is a church, which does deserve special mention — Abune Yemata. This church requires almost vertical ascent. It does not take long to get there from the base and the visitor walks past ancient olive trees, small farmsteads and is then faced with a choice. To climb or not to climb up! Parts of the ascent are vertical for about 5 meters and there is no room for error. There are no ladders, no ropes and no hope if you fall. And yet there is a motivating force, which drives you on wards and upwards. When you are close to the entrance and you have succeeded in dealing with vertically you are faced with taking off your shoes and climbing over a bridge of rock with foot holds and hand grips in the rock face.
On top of that, to get to the church entrance, there is a narrow ledge with an abyss below, which almost teases and entices you to look over and follow some primeval instinct to jump. Ivy Pearce, one of the first few westerners to visit the site, gives her account of her visit.
I climbed up some pretty stiff stuff and then came face to face with a cliff face with only footholds and handgrips at irregular intervals. This climb I could not manage, as my arms were not long enough to reach the next handgrip to let my foot go to find the next foot-grip. Furthermore, the handgrips were too wide to grasp firmly with my small hands. I didn't want to take risk, so gave it up and sat on a small ledge below.
Not many visitors are comfortable to even attempt the scary ascent, although it is extremely rewarding to enjoy the view from above of the sharp drop of the cliff. Ruth plant described the church as "...the most unusual church in the most unusual place, that place being majestic and awesome". The interior of the church, reached via a small crack in the rock is notable for its extensive and perfectly preserved wall and ceiling frescoes, thought to date from the 15th century and regarded by Plant as "the most sophisticated frescoes found in Tigray". It is surprising that such great works of art existed for centuries in such unusual place which seems rather closer to the moon than to the earth, or so it seems, a refuge from the rigorous of life on the plains below.
ABUNE GEBRE MIKAEL KORARO
The Megab - Koraro road skirts the western foot side of Gheralta accompanied by various landscapes. The escarpment that overlays the settlement in the east is marked by pyramid-shaped stony hills of which one safeguards Abune Gebre Mikael, one of the best-preserved churches of the mountains. Considered one of the best and finest churches in Gherealta, this church's cruciform plan is hewn beautifully into a dome-like rock. It features vibrant frescoes and carefully carved columns, pillars, cupolas and arches. The church can be reached after driving 23 km of local road from Megab or 18 km from the departure of Abune Yemata (Guh) and after a sometimes demanding climb up a chimney in the mountain.
DEBRE MARIAM KORKOR AND DANIEL KORKOR
It described by David Buton, the author of " the Rock - Hewn and other Medieval churches of Tigrai Province, Ethiopia', as " one of the many important shrines in Gheralta", is a church situated on one of the high mountains of Gheralta just overlooking the village Megab 8 km before Megab or 8 km south of Hawzien. An hour's walk and climb from the village it brings you to the white washed faced of a built structure church facing to the West.
It is one of the biggest and most complex rock- hewn churches of Tigray. The interior of the church is 9.4m wide, 17m deep and about 6m high. There are six huge pillars, 2.4m apart from one other. The columns have bracket capital capitals and are cruciform in design. There are also a series of beautifully decorated arches. The arches and ceiling of the church are decorated with bas reliefs, some of them similar to those at, Abraha Atsbeha.
Mariam Korkor is also rich in terms of ancient murals. The walls and columns of the church are decorated with paintings with stories from both the old and the New Testament. One of the columns a magnificent painting depicting Archangel Ruphael can be inspected. This particular painting is reported by Gerster to be "similar to the painting in the cathedral church of Faras". Another painting on the Western wall shows the Virgin Marry with a circle around her abdomen. The circle, according Ivy Pearce indicates the development of Christ in Utero. She further went on the state that such a theme was common one in 17 th century Byzantine art. Ruth Plant corroborates that the paintings of this church are reminiscent of Byzantine art. Moreover, Plant observed variations in the styles of the paintings in the church and was led to believe that "at least three painters have been at work. The church also has a wide collection of parchment manuscripts and crosses.
A short walk on to a rock ledge facing east, the entrance to Abba Daniel korkor, is a small church with only two rooms. The ceiling of the domed anteroom is decorated with primitive paintings. From the passage that takes to Daniel Korkor one enjoys the magnificent view of the mountains of Gheralta as well as of the Hawzien plains.
ABUNE ABRAHAM DEBRE TSION
YOHANNES MAEQUDDI
- Yohanned Maequddi Church